After breakfast at Bessietown Farm we went in search of Westerhall
House, a tower house that had been occupied by the Glendennings
from the 14th century to the early 1600s. Westerhall was originally
known as “Dalduran” and was part of the barony of Westerker
(Watstirker) in the 13th century. The Glendennings acquired
possession of Dalduran from the Douglasses sometime during
the 14th century. “Glendenning and Dalduran were eventually
sold by the Glendennings in 1605 to James Johnston of Westraw;
in 1606 the name James Johnston of Westerhall first appears
on record.” (For additional information see The Border Towers
of Scotland: the West March by Alastair M. T. Maxwell-Irving).
We actually located the house 4 ˝ miles northwest from Langholm
on a secondary road on the east side of the River Esk between
Burnfoot and Bentpath. The tower is incorporated into a lovely
manor house that is part of a large estate. Nearby we discovered
an old churchyard with several Glendenning and Irving gravestones.
Our wonderings also led us past fields that contained dozens
of partridges and pheasants. What a sight!
We drove north past Eskdalemuir, Johnstone and Ettrick with
a side trip to St. Mary’s Loch and tea at Tibby Shiels Inn.
The pub was a favorite place for Sir. Walter Scott to meet
James Hogg, the “Ettrick Shepherd.” Then we drove north through
Innerleithen to the wonderful Peebles Hydro Hotel, our home
for two nights.
We retraced our path back to Innerleithen for lunch and a
tour of Traquair Castle. The name comes from “Tra”, a dwelling
or hamlet and “Quair” is a tributary of the Tweed. This very
interesting house, home of the Stuarts and Maxwell Stuarts,
has many items associated with Scottish Kings and Queens including
Mary Queen of Scots’ rosary and crucifix plus petit point
embroidery dating from 1600. There is also a priest’s hole
and secret stair case.
We also viewed the famous Bear Gates, which were closed one
late autumn day in 1745 when Prince Charles Edward Stuart
passed through after being a guest at Traquair. The gates
remain closed to this day.