Today we drove through Castle Douglas and Dalbeattie, past
the Mersehead Sands, to Kirkbean and the Museum at Arbigland
on Solway Firth. In 1747 in the small gardener's cottage of
the estate John Paul, junior, son of John Paul and his wife
Jean, was born. This boy, better known as John Paul Jones,
is regarded as the founder of the American Navy and played
a significant role as American commander in naval battles
during the Revolutionary War, many of which were fought in
Solway Firth. The reconstructed cottage has been furnished
as it would have been in the 18th century.
The museum also contains a room representing the cabin of
Jones' ship “Bonhomme Richard” in which Jones defeated
the British HMS Seraphis off Flamborough Head, Yorkshire in
1779. An audiovisual program of the battle recalls under what
conditions Jones spoke the words, “I have not yet begun
to fight,” when he was asked during the battle by Peason,
Commander of the Seraphis, “Sir, do you ask for quarter?”
The program and house, opened to the public in 1993, are well
worth seeing.
We went north to the town of New Abbey to see Sweetheart
Abbey, which was founded in 1273 by Lady Devorgilla of Galloway
in memory of her late husband, John Balliol. When Lady Devorgilla
died in 1289 she was buried by the high altar and her husband's
embalmed heart was buried with her. The monks of the Cistercian
order chose the name Dulce Cor or Sweetheart for their
abbey in her memory. Edward I stayed at the abbey in August
1300 on his return from invading Galloway. Later in that century
it came under the patronage of Archibald 'The Grim' 3rd Earl
of Douglas. The Reformation during the 16th century saw the
demise of Sweetheart.
Today we see ruins of these once magnificent buildings, constructed
of the local red sandstone and beautifully carved into columns
and elaborate windows. They stand on brilliant green turf
so thick it looks like moss.
We went north to the town of Dumfries on the River Nith to
visit the various sites associated with the later life of
Scottish poet Robert Burns. We started with an interesting
film on Burns' life at the Robert Burns Centre located in
the old burgh mill on the River Nith and then had lunch at
the pub in the Globe Inn tucked away in a narrow alley off
the High Street. Burns' “Howff” and the Snug Bar
are said to retain much of the 18th century atmosphere when
Burns was an “honoured favoured guest.”
We toured the Burns' House where he and his family lived
from May 1793 until his death on July 21, 1796. Our earlier
visit to Alloway plus our experiences in Dumfries have given
us a greater appreciation of the life of this famous man and
the difficulties he faced as a creative man who needed to
earn a living to support his family.
From Dumfries we returned to the Craigadam Hotel where a
real surprise awaited us. The hotel owners had arranged to
have a piper, complete to a shade in his Highland kilt, play
a special program for our party. What a treat! Dinner was
also outstanding, with a lovely Game Meat Casserole that contained
pheasant, grouse, partridge and venison and a sticky toffee
pudding for dessert.
